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India has been renowned for its printed and dyed cotton cloth since centuries.
Rajasthan has an important place in decorating ready- made cloth. Though the cotton
is not grown here, state is famous for dyeing, printing and embroidery. Floral,
geometrical or animal motifs are major designs of printing. Various items as wall
hangings, canopies and floor spreads have a high market value beside other
furnishings and dress materials.
Rajasthan is the heart of hand-block printing. Very close to Jaipur is Sanganer,
the center for block and screen-printed cotton cloth. The fascinating range of
block-printed fabric in bold colors may be further embellished by embroidery. The
Sanganeri block prints usually consist of floral motif. Basic colors are scarlet,
black and brown. but now, with increasing technology and use of synthetic dyes, unusual
combinations of scarlet and pink, purple and orange, turquoise and green are gaining
market demand.
Block printing has become popular because of the simple process which can create
such amazing prints and that too in bold and vibrant colors. Originally, block printing used
colors from natural dyes, but today chemicals and artificial colors are also being used.
This has increased range in block printing and secured its place in exports.
Yet, the natural colors are used in Rajasthani prints. Yellow is derived from turmeric and buttermilk,
green from banana leaves, black from iron rust, blue from indigo plants, red from
sugarcane and sunflower and purple from the Kirmiz insect. The main colors
used are red, the color of love, yellow the color of spring, blue and saffron
being the other ones.
Block Printing is done with the help of wooden blocks, known as Chhapas or buntis
found in different shapes and sizes. Blocks are made of seasoned teak wood with
design on the underside of the block. These blocks are dipped into dye to print the
pattern on the cloth. These wooden blocks have different floral motif carved on them.
These blocks are the main tools of the printer. The blocks are so designed to allow
release of excess printing dye. The new blocks are soaked in oil for 10-15 days to
soften the grains in the timber. The printing table is long enough so that good number
of fabric could be printed altogether. The fabric to be printed is pinned over the
table and printed block by block.
Sanganer is flooded with block makers and printers. The art of overprinting in
gold is also practiced here. Cloth is bleached and then folded into two or four layers depending on the thickness
of the cloth, before printing. The design or the layout of the pattern is made using wooden blocks dipped in geru,
a burnt sienna color mixed with water.
The Sanganer prints are always on a white background famous for its
artistry and intricacy of design. It is known for the finest block printing. Block designs get bigger
and bolder and the delicacy is lost.
Various floral designs, geometrical and God figures are included in its prints. Folk designs are found quite often and are famous, as they
retain the basic Sanganeri printing style. Nowadays beside traditional prints modern
designs are also found on block printed cloth. Instead of hand block printing these
days screen printing is getting popular here.
The traditional skirts (ghagras) of Rajasthan carry these block prints in a very elegant manner. These skirts with
added style has a place in the fashion world. Mostly, the furnishings, bed covers, curtains, cushions and bed
sheets are demanded in Sanganeri prints. Beside, the dress material is also famous among not only the
local people but world over.
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