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Rajasthan has colors in its soul. This state has incorporated colors beautifully in its clothes. The woven fabrics here are decorated with various kinds of stitches of
different colors and this art is known as embroidery. The embroideries add to the ethnic and basic style along with making the clothing more colorful and attractive.
Embroidery is done on various types of fabrics by using different
kinds of threads. The threads may be of cotton, wool or silk. The modern techniques and fashion houses have now given birth to many more synthetic threads to be used in various stitches and on various fabrics.
Mainly, dark and primary colors are used in contrast to the
fabric, which makes the embroidery prominent and effective.
In Rajasthan every part of the State has it's own particular style.
At Bikaner, mainly running stitches can be seen whereas Sikar and
Jhunihunu specialize in making animal patterns. Chain stitch is popular in A!war and is used to make dancing figures, flowers and peacocks.
Barmer and Jaisalmer areas of the state are well known for mirror work on the dresses. Mirrors, sown along with embroideries add to the beauty of the fabric by giving it a sparkling effect.
Beside, the routine embroideries done using silk, cotton or woolen threads, zarri and gotta work are another specialties of the state. Zardozi the very word
leaves us spell bound. Zar, means gold and Dozi is embroidery, which implies that Zardozi is an art of embroidering with gold and silver wires or threads. The Zardozi is mainly done on silks and chiffons to enhance their grace and add up to the festive look of the fabric. Zardozi, along with other embroideries is also done in combination with mirrors, beads and kundan. This kind of appliqué work holds an important place in fashion
world.
Appliqué is yet another way of decorating dresses and furnishings,
using glass pieces, metal pieces, wood pieces, metal wire or patch work. The use of zarri threads (gold or silver threads) is done along with golden or silver colored beads to make the bridal dress special. Wooden beads in various sizes and shapes are most demanded on regular wear. Small metal pieces are used on the fabric in a distributed manner or in accordance with a specific design. This is popularly known as mukesh. Embroideries and appliqué work is also done on foot wears like
jootis, scarves, curtains and other furnishings.
The famous gotta work from Rajasthan holds important place traditionally also. It is just a kind of patch work done a bit differently. It is minute needle work done by Gotta or the ribbon made from golden threads, put on borders or otherwise in form of patches. The gotta is folded, cut and put in according to the pre decided design. The broad geometric patterns are found on traditional dresses, but now the same work is done in a very fine way giving rise to new designs. The gotta patti work is the most demanded one and leads to floral patterns. Previously done on saris, nowadays mainly found on lehriya tops and trousers. The borders of the saris and lehanga (skirt) are embroidered with floral motifs and geometric designs.
The state figures at the top of embroidery patterns as it fascinates all the classes of society. Embroidered folk dresses are very charming and fascinated because of their
peculiar combinations and contrasting color, designs, mirrors, beads, shells, metallic pieces and silver coins. Popular
motifs, as fruits, animals etc. designed in the cloth are added attractions. Moreover, the fashion gurus have well inculcated the
English taste in the traditional embroideries by using threads of pastel colors.
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